Not sure how to mathematically calculate mid/min values, but if/when I figure it out, I will try to incorporate those into the spreadsheet if possible. Note: these numbers are all based on MAX distance values. Let me know if anyone finds this as useful as I do, and any feedback is welcome. Either way, definitely a printer-friendly version for those that don’t want to rely on a second device. You can use it the same way, but still need to estimate between half mph winds, and it doesn’t provide the same visual ease IMO because the cells don’t fall into the same increments per ring. For those that may want a simplified version, I included the 0.5 mph increment chart (only 30 columns vs 150). Also, if you are in a tournament and past the qualifying round, you may already know what wind you will be getting, and can pre-adjust accordingly to be ready quickly.Ī downside to this method is that it requires you to have the spreadsheet open on a separate device in front of you. If you are shooting second you can use your opponent’s wind to estimate where in the row you should be for mph. You can scroll to or highlight that club’s row while your opponent is shooting and cut the time down. You almost always know which club (or narrowed to a couple of clubs) you will likely be using on your next shot. When you use the 0.1 mph increment tab, it may seem daunting to find the right spot quickly, but consider: It is transparent in the game but seeing as it is over grass more often than not, I think of it as green, and IMO it’s less confusing than using grey to represent “clear”, especially next to white.) (Note: for the sake of simplicity, I made the third ring green. (This is also a huge reason I prefer this method the decimal is irrelevant if I just glance and see the blue ring and the position of that cell tells me that I should aim 1/3rd of the way into it.) 3, or about 1/3rd of the way into that ring. For example, if I’m shooting with the Backbone and the wind is 3.1 mph, that puts me at a value of 2.3 2 rings (blue) and. The whole numbers correspond to the number of rings outside of center (not super important since they are color coded), while the decimal corresponds to how far into that ring to shoot. The values in the chart are rounded to one decimal place, so it is very easy to interpret how far into that ring you should go. The “0.1 MPH Increments” tab is every accuracy value broken down from 0-15 mph in, you guessed it, increments of 0.1 mph. It’s a little extra work at the beginning, but probably no more than entering all your clubs into a wind chart generator. Use your own google doc or Excel and enter as many rows and specific clubs as you want, and copy/paste the mph data from the subsequent tabs (0.1 or 0.5 mph increments) based on the accuracy rating of your specific clubs. The first tab “My Bag” is an example of how I actually use the charts- my standard clubs plus 2 alternate woods for various situations. Math is not my strong suit by any means, so this method allows me to quickly locate my distance, and it has the visual element of the rings themselves to help. So I created this spreadsheet based on the actual wind speed in mph to calculate exactly how far into which ring I should be shooting. So if the wind is in between, like 3.3, I can ballpark it, but when tournament placements come down to single strokes, I wanted an easier way to be super accurate. For example, level 6 Big Dawg, 29 accuracy= 2.4 for ring 1, 4.8 for ring 2, etc. This tends to happen more with less accurate clubs. I have benefited greatly from using standard wind charts, and have been using one I created myself (see last tab in spreadsheet) but I found that it often takes some mental gymnastics to estimate wind values on the fly. Link: (helps to immediately zoom out to about 50%)
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